CT-26 Turbo Removal

     First off this method isn't the quickest but it's the easiest. You will be removing some parts that don't have to be removed but it makes it much easier. You'll need a 10mm socket, 12mm socket, 14mm socket, 14mm wrench (ratcheting wrench is a LIFESAVER here, well worth $25 from Sears), 17mm socket, pliars or vice grip, a few extensions, ratchet and a wobbler or u-joint.

     Remove the upper intercooler pipe that goes over the turbo (two 10mm hose clamps). You may find it worthwhile at this point to remove the 3000 pipe, it's only a few extra bolts. Remove the AFM and accordian hose (one 10mm hose clamps, a few spring hose clamps and a couple bolts, depends on your mods). Remove the turbo heat shield (12mm nuts). Remove the upper turbo bracket if you still have it, should be pretty obvious how to remove, sorry I haven't had one in a long time and don't recall the specs. I find it easy at this point to remove the power steering bracket to get it out the way (four 12mm bolts, one 12mm nuts). Remove the lower intercooler hose that attaches to the turbo (one 10mm hose clamp), this is a little tricky since that hose is usually cracked. Try to take it off carefully and push it down as far as you can, it's an expensive hose (see below if you break it). Remove the O2 housing, this is where a dp with a flex section really shines (four 14mm nuts). Remove the dip stick tube (one 10mm bolt). If you've got the stock downpipe you're going to have to get under the car to remove the downpipe from the tranny and the 2nd cat (two 14mm nuts w/bolts), otherwise you can just push the downpipe out of your way. Next remove the two coolant lines (pliars, vice grip, channel locks, finger grip of death). Next you'll have to tackle the remaining 2 turbo brackets, assuming you have them. It's been a very long time since I've seen them so someone correct me if I'm wrong. One stretches from the motor mount to the turbo and I believe it's held on with a 17mm bolt, remove the bracket completely. The last bracket I believe goes from the turbo to the manifold with some 12mm bolts. Now, remove the four nuts holding the turbo onto the manifold, again the 14mm ratcheting wrench is a complete lifesaver, I can't imagine removing the turbo without it. I find that I can reach my arm around where the downpipe was with the ratcheting wrench and easily get to the bottom two nuts. If you can only get a click or two try to get a better spot, these actually come off quick if you can find the best angle.

     Now for the hard part, the oil lines. The first time you remove them it sucks no matter how you tackle it. There are two ways of doing this, removing the oil lines where they merge from the turbo, or remove the two oil lines from the block. I find the lines off the block to be easier so I will detail that. First the easy one, assemble this: 17mm socket - two 3" or one 6" extension - wobble or u-joint - another 6" of extension - ratchet. With your left hand guide the socket onto the oil feel banjo bolt (it's usually shiny copper near the oil filter), make sure it's on nice and straight so you don't strip it and then use your right hand with all your might to remove it. You may have to two hand it, just make damn sure your socket is on straight. Be careful removing the banjo bolt, it's got 2 washers on it and they are very easy to lose. It's a good idea to get new ones if possible, but keep the old ones around just in case. Now for the hard one. Reach your left hand under the turbo, either from the back side or straight in between the cold and hot side of the turbo. Try to locate the ribbed metal line. Now follow it down to where it hits the block, feel for the two 12mm nuts. With that in mind, put a 12mm socket on a couple of extensions and a ratchet. The one on the left is pretty easy, just follow the tube down and stick the socket on it. The right one may require playing with different extensions and sockets, for example two 3" extensions and a short 12mm, or one 3" extension one 1" extension and a deep 12mm, it helps to have a nice selection. You want to get the ratchet clear of the clutter but not hit the fender. You may find it easier to remove the two 12mm bolts that hold the wastegate actuator, that way you get a little room to move that wastegate arm around. Remember to use that void you got by moving the O2 housing and downpipe. I like to stick my left hand around from the back side of the turbo and use my right hand from the middle of the turbo. If it seems like you can't get the ratchet to move, pull out and try a different angle. With removing this turbo it's all about the right attack angle and the right tools. Once you get those two nuts off you can pull the turbo towards the fender, rotate it clockwise (facing the engine) a few degrees and pull up.

     Installation is pretty much reverse, for the most part you work from the bottom to the top. Try to attach the O2 housing / downpipe last. The oil dipstick tube can be a little tricky, reach under the turbo and try to feel for the motor mount. At the top edge of the mount kind of in the center there is a hole, shove the tube in there.

     If you break that lower hose you can always buy a short piece of straight pipe and cut the stock hose up. Use the metal pipe for an extension and just cut the stock hose to adapt the metal pipe in.